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When Buying a New Home, Don’t Forget Your Septic Inspection

Dec 17th, 2011
by SepticMan.
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You have always enjoyed house hunting. It gives you the chance to choose from a vast collection of properties that appeal to you. But in studying every piece of property, there is one vital thing that you have to remember—septic tank inspection. You should know better than to just sign the house’s paperwork and not know what you’re getting.

The moment you have decided to buy a house, you should make sure that the septic tank is functional and in optimal condition. It should be one of the main concerns that you should raise with your realtor. It is usually assumed that the home inspectors are the ones responsible for checking the septic tank. The septic tank is buried so the home inspectors cannot have access to it. The one who should do the septic tank inspection is a specialist who has been trained and has the right training to do this task. Even if the inspector does check your septic tank, he wouldn’t have the necessary tools to correct the problem. The  specialists will know what to do once the septic cover is removed. The septic system environment is a health hazard to work in and only they could perform well there with the training that they have.

Remember that a well-built and installed septic system will be of service for many years if proper maintenance is done. You should get all the information about your prospective home. Do not be afraid to ask the necessary questions. In checking the home that you want to buy, pay attention to the following details so that you may be properly guided in getting the perfect home with the perfect septic system:

  1. Air around the septic area should not smell of rotten eggs
  2. The ground should not be soggy  or pooling should not be present
  3. There should be green grass on the leach field
  4. Drains should not be slow or clogged up
  5. The septic tank should have been checked in the past twelve months
  6. The septic tank should have been pumped 3 or 5 years ago

If you do encounter or discover any problems with your prospective home’s septic system, then you should ask the environmental officer in your area for practical advice. Better yet, call the septic plumber so that they could immediately deal with and correct the problem if they see one.

There may be a time when you would want to inspect the septic system yourself. It is not that complicated anyway and you could just do it in twenty minutes. Just be prepared by taking note of the toxic fumes; leaving the opening for a while before approaching it; not smoking in the area of an open septic tank; never inspecting alone; wearing gloves and washing hands immediately after your done; and informing your doctor of any injuries after your inspection. Start by carefully opening the inspection cover with a screwdriver. Then check the level of fluid. It should not be higher than the outlet pipe. Next, check if the effluent filter is working well or unclogged. If there is a clog, rinse it with water. If this doesn’t work, just replace the filter cartridge. Check the area of the absorption trenches. It should not be soggy or smelly, which are indications of an exhausted trench. Don’t forget to check all the toilets and drains in the house. They should work properly. Slow drains are indications of clogs or exhausted trenches. Supplement your personal inspection with a consultation with a plumbing specialist.

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Leaking Leach Field Help

Dec 13th, 2011
by SepticMan.
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Leach fields of your septic tank should always be clear of roots and bio-mat to drain properly. Smooth drainage will prevent the backing up, or leaking of the liquid and solid wastes into your yard or right into your home. It is already known that there are cleaning products that are detrimental to the environment and the same holds true for septic systems since they too have their own environment. If you use methods and products that are environment-friendly, in the long run it will cost you much less than when you use the commercially prepared, synthetic ones. Here are some of the natural substances that will help you clear your leach field: 

  1. Ice cream salt remedy

One way of effectively giving your leach field some help is through the use of ice cream salts. Boil a cup of this substance in about 2 cups of water. This will result in a strong salt solution that could dissolve roots near the leach fields. Tree roots are common causes of clogs in the leach fields. You could apply the ice cream salt solution by pouring it in the sinks, toilet, and other drains located in your home every 6 months so that the tree roots will not spread in the leach field. 

  1. Copper sulfate

Among the commercially prepared products for cleaning leach fields, copper sulfate is said to be the safest one to use. Just dissolve about a pound of copper sulfate in a cup of water and pour it down your drains. This will kill the roots in the septic tank. The tank’s pipes will then spread it in the surrounding area. 

  1. Vinegar and baking soda

When you combine vinegar and baking soda, you will produce a potent foam that could dissolve the solidified wastes in all the drains of your home, that lead to the septic tank. 

  1. Yeast

It is said that applying a yeast culture I the septic system will break down solid wastes including sanitary napkins, wet wipes, toilet paper, and feces. These solid wastes should be dissolves because they tend to block the leach field lines resulting to a back up in raw sewage. It is advisable for you to apply the yeast in water about two times a year to maintain the balanced number of bacteria that your septic tank needs. This way, your leach fields remain efficient in digesting the solid wastes. 

  1. Additives

Of course, nothing can compare to the effectiveness of adding high quality, commercial grade bacteria and enzymes to your system. Additives can quickly restore a leaking system so as to improve permeability and absorption in the clog areas.       

 You could prevent your leach fields from clogging up by using septic chemicals that do not kill bacteria that digest the wastes; by using less water; by keeping your lawn grass short; and by using environment-friendly household cleaning products. If you use environmentally safe septic chemicals, the bacterial population remains intact, therefore the digestion of wastes keeps going smoothly. When you use less water, the leach system could self-unclog at a faster rate. If you se much water, you act against the clog so it cannot be expelled. If you allow your lawn grass to grow very long, the sun cannot penetrate through the leach field soil area. If the grass is kept short, the heat of the sun will be able to hasten the bacteria’s work in unclogging the leach field. As you know, most commercial household cleaning products have harsh chemical compounds that kill the microbial population. Just make sure that you use the environmental friendly ones and avoid using the acidic cleaners so that the bacteria in your septic tank will not be harmed.

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Brown Grass over the Cesspit

Nov 29th, 2011
by SepticMan.
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During some occasions, a homeowner may notice that the green grass over the cesspit has become brown. Brown grass may mean two things – either the soil above the cesspit is not thick enough to retain nutrients needed to feed the grass or the system has failed. Should you worry about having brown grass over your cesspit? Find out first what this indicates and we will give you simple solutions on how to prevent or solve this issue.

During the hot weather (especially during the summer), grass roots have the tendency to grow further below the soil in search for moisture to satisfy them. As the roots grow longer, they encounter resistance from the septic tank blocking their way to grow anywhere else to access water from the surrounding area. The soil might be too thin or shallow that it easily dries out during a hot weather and it can’t handle the root structure. The ideal soil thickness to grow grass over a cesspit is at least 6 inches. Herbaceous plants such as Kentucky bluegrass or black-eyed Susan’s are very efficient for this situation. These types of plants have fibrous roots that do not need watering or fertilizing and could also help in preventing soil erosion. It is not advisable to keep watering the grass over the cesspit as additional water may reduce the drain field’s ability to take in water.

Another reason responsible for brown grass over the cesspit is system hydraulic failure. This means that the cesspit cannot purify the waste water any longer due to blockage in the system. This prevents the effluents from being diffused into the soil, so bacteria cannot digest and transform them into safer substances. This situation can be signified by a strong and foul sewage odor, and as we all know, septic odors often signify trouble in the system. During a hydraulic failure, the ground becomes polluted and contaminates the ground surrounding it, which causes the grass to turn brown. You can seek help from a licensed septic contractor or professional plumber to fix this problem. You may be required to pump the cesspit out or replace it if the cesspit is too old.

It is important to prevent these situations from happening. Having a faulty cesspit may pose risk to you and your family’s health, plus it may cost you lots of money for repair or replacement. Simple steps can be taken to prevent these problems from arising:

  1. Pump out your cesspit as often as needed. Cesspits are designed according to the number of people in the household and the amount of waste that goes into it. Depending on its usage, the cesspit needs to be emptied out as often as possible.
  2. Do not allow human, plants or vehicles to step or drive over the cesspit.
  3. Avoid flushing non biodegradable and other harmful materials to the drain going to the cesspit. These materials such as sanitary napkins, tissue, cigarette butts, etc. do not decompose and may cause clogging in the system. Harmful chemicals such as bleach should also be avoided as much as possible as these materials can destroy the bacteria living in the cesspits.
  4. If the area around your cesspit is depressed or eroded, consider adding some fill to raise the area so as to discourage water from pooling. Also, the added soils should help the grass sustain water and nutrients better.

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How Drain Fields are Constructed

Nov 25th, 2011
by SepticMan.
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The drain field is also known as leaching beds or absorption field. It is an essential part of the sewage disposal system. The septic tank may last for 20 to 30 years but drain fields do not normally last that long unless they are well-designed, treated with a bacteria supplement and the gravel structure and internal PVC remain intact. People pay very little attention to the construction and maintenance of this drainage system, but in this article, we will discuss the important aspects to consider in building a reliable and lasting drain field.

First, it is very important to check with your local health department or county office if a permit is required or if the drain field needs to be inspected while it is being built or after it has been built. Second, determine the soil’s absorption capacity. The most important thing that needs to be considered in building a drain field is the permeability of the soil. A soil scientist can test the ground with a so-called “perc” test (percolation test). This test determines the absorption rate of the soil. It can also check other aspects such as ground slope, system capacity and depth of the bedrock before deciding the size and where to put the leaching bed. Obviously, a drain field should not be located in a poor drainage area. Ideally, it should be at least 10 feet away from a body of water and 10 feet from edible plants.

The next step will be digging the trenches. A conventional drain field is built with piping. It runs a straight line and should not be longer than 100 feet. The trench can be dug either by hand or using a machine like a trencher or a backhoe. The trench depth should always be kept in mind while digging. Having a yardstick or ruler handy is very helpful. Ideally, trenches are roughly 18 inches wide and with a flat bottom. The location of the piping for the drainage system is often determined by the local regulatory agency, but usually it is placed 1 to 3 feet or more below the surface. Also, bear in mind that trenches should slightly slant downward for no more than ¼ inch per 8 feet of pipe. Too much slope could create a back up in your system. The trenches and piping are placed in parallel with each other, wherein the distribution box is at the head of the design.

After the trench and the piping have been set up, the trenches will now be filled with gravel. The gravel should be up to about 6 inches from the top. Afterwards, a layer of tarpaper or any other fabric barrier will now be placed on top of it. The barrier keeps the soil out of the gravel. Finally, the soil shall cover the fabric. The mounds will not be visible as the earth eventually compacts.

Always remember that the amount of water being put into the septic tank is the same amount that flows into the leaching beds. Here are simple reminders to keep your drain field from early failure:

  1. The drain field must be constructed in an area with good ventilation and sunlight.
  2. Avoid constructing anything above the drain field.
  3. Remove trees that are planted near the drain field area as its roots may damage the distribution pipes. 

If you plan on taking this task on, seek out as much information as possible and consult professionals who have constructed these types of systems. Once the drain field is laid out, little can be done to change what’s in place so proper planning is the key to a successful project.

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Septic Tank Additives and Their Role in Cleaning Septic Tanks

Nov 21st, 2011
by SepticMan.
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Homeowners who own septic systems rely solely on private sewage disposal since their system is not connected to a central wastewater system. It is their primary concern to maintain their system’s good, working condition and you will always hear them ask, “Should I buy septic tank additives? Are they beneficial for my septic system?” What are additives, by the way? And how do they help in maintaining the septic systems?

Additives are known to be used in septic systems to liquefy or gasify bio-solids in the septic tank, improve settling of scum/solids to the bottom of the system and rejuvenate stressed bacteria in the septic tank to eliminate clogged soil absorption. They are sometimes referred to as starters, feeders and cleaners.

Starters are often used for newly constructed systems or those that have been recently pumped. Bacteria are added to the system to get the system going. Feeders, on the other hand, act as food for the bacteria inside the tank to help them become healthier or reproduce faster. They produce enzymes necessary for growth of bacteria. Bacteria in septic tanks play an important role in the system, without them, digestion of solid will not occur that may result to clogging of the system. Feeders are most helpful when the homeowner puts too many disinfectants and cleaning products to kill bacteria or if they use medication such as antibiotics and flush them in the toilet. Feeders help these bacteria recover faster so they can do their job in solid digestion. The other type of additive is the cleaners. Cleaners are responsible for cleaning the pipes and the septic tanks. For homeowners who are skeptical about pumping their septic systems, septic tank cleaners are readily available in the stores for their use.

Moreover, additives are divided into two categories:

  1. Chemical additives. These include organic and inorganic compounds. Chemical additives “have limited use today“according to an article about environmental health. It is because sulfuric acid is on active ingredient for this type of additive. This ingredient is highly corrosive and can cause structural damage to the system. Exposure of soil and underground water to this type of harmful chemical can harm the environment.
  2. Biological additives. These additives are made from bacteria, yeast and enzymes. They help increase the efficiency of bacteria in breaking up the solids inside the system. They are often marketed as routine maintenance, used in a weekly or monthly basis to maintain the balance of the septic system. Unlike chemical additives, wastewater experts don’t see any adverse environmental effect on biological additives.

The use of biological additives is encouraged to counter chemical depletion of bacteria colonies, additionally; it has been proven that the use of this product, enzymes in particular, help in the reduction of oil and grease in the septic tank. Also, using biological additives can help reduce the amount of out flowing solids in the septic tank under its bacterial “die-off” conditions. Die-off condition occurs when a homeowner uses bleach, anti-bacterial agents such as medications, and other toxic substances that result to elimination of necessary bacteria in the tank.

Chemical additives are showing a reduction in popularity due to their potentially detrimental effects on the septic systems ecology and structure. Biological additives, on the other hand, are readily available for purchase at hardware and home improvement stores and supermarkets. These products rarely pose any harm to the system itself, or the environment.

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Will Hydrogen Peroxide Harm Cesspools?

Nov 9th, 2011
by SepticMan.
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To find whether hydrogen peroxide could harm cesspools or not, one needs to check how the cesspool operates and why hydrogen peroxide might be utilized in such system. 

Cesspools are easy to locate in remote areas that have access to large piece of barren non-agricultural land. On such lands, a pit is dug that serves as a place to collect the sludge or waste generated over time. This pit stores and converts sewage waste into manure by the process of composting. However, a pit fully laden with waste can start to really smell foul over the years. Besides, the smell could give a very bad experience to the trespassers. In addition, over accumulation of waste could call for a high-risk accumulation of ecological endangering bacteria. These could sip into underground river and water sources and contaminate them. 

To avert this problem, you may choose hydrogen peroxide, which diminishes the bacterial growth in the cesspool by killing them. You must be aware that hydrogen peroxide is a bacterial inhibitor and it stops growth of bacteria in its tracks. It thus finds its use sometimes as a potent cleaning agent. Most often, this chemical is mentioned as a septic tank additive, as it assists in the action of cleaning and is cheaper than most other cleaning agents. It wipes away all harmful bacterial that could accumulate in high numbers and pose a threat to the ecology or people nearby the system. In the process of cleaning, it eliminates bad odor that comes from the accumulation of bacteria during the decomposition stage. 

Apart from being cheap in price, hydrogen peroxide is easily available and can be stocked in huge quantities. Hydrogen peroxide is non-toxic to plant and the surrounding ecosystem generally as it simply eliminates harmful bacteria to bring down their count to healthy levels. In addition, it does not posses threat to human beings. Moreover, most users of hydrogen peroxide are aware about its benefits such as ease to work with, fast action and high efficiency rate. 

While the chemical may work wonders in an open environment with treatments controlled so as to not allow infectious bacteria to come into contact with humans or the surrounding areas, killing off massive amounts of bacteria is a cesspool is probably the last thing a home owner will want to do. Since the system relies so heavily on bacteria, anything introduced into the system that will lessen that bacterial life is considered severely detrimental. 

Bottom Line: 

Hydrogen peroxide is a vital chemical, which is useful in cleaning away harmful spillage however, it is not recommended for use in a cesspit system due to its immensely powerful anti-bacterial properties. Since bacteria is essential for the ongoing decay occurring within the system, only bacteria friendly products should be administered.

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What Causes Leach Field Wet Spots?

Nov 4th, 2011
by SepticMan.
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A septic tank happens to be one of the most crucial parts of your property and therefore, it is important that you take good care of it. A worn out septic system may lead to various problems. One such problem is the formation of wet spots above the leach field. Numerous reasons may lead to the creation of such wet spots. Some of these reasons are heavy water usage, buildup of grease and oil in the drain field and a leaking septic tank pipe. Moreover, a faulty septic system design can also turn out to be a major cause for leach field wet spots. 

Wet spots are tiny puddles occurring above the drain field. There are times when the flow of water through the drain field is interrupted due to a possible blockage. As a result, the water may back up into your house or may accumulate on the surface resulting in wet spots. These wet spots occur mainly when the septic system is just about to wear out. Therefore, you need to take care of the situation immediately. A delay may require you to spend a huge amount on the repairs and treatments that lie ahead. 

What is the actual reason that leads to the formation of such wet spots on the drain field? In most cases, the primary cause happens to be the excessive build-up of grease and oil in the tank. The bacteria present in the system are unable to breakdown these matters and therefore, they keep on mounting up inside the tank thereby affecting the flow of water. Due to the blockage caused, water fails to find its route and forcibly moves up to the surface. 

In most of the cases, the design of the septic system itself turns out to be the major cause of wet spots. While designing septic tanks, some manufacturers fail to take into consideration the environmental factors that can possibly affect the operation of the septic system. The working of a septic tank primarily depends on the size of its leach field, the type of soil used in the construction and the water table. If the tank falls short of any of these factors, it may result into the malfunctioning of the entire septic system. 

Very few people are aware of the fact that tree roots too play a key role in blocking the leach lines. A sudden shift in the earth or the moving of heavy equipments over the drain field may cause the leach lines to break. As a result, the water from the tank moves up to the surface and forms tiny puddles. 

What should you do to solve the problem? Avoid pouring down too much of greasy and oily matter through the sink. If the wet spots are a cause of a faulty septic system design, there is very less you can do about it yourself. In this case, call up an expert technician and get it replaced. Make sure that your septic tank has sufficient amount of bacteria and consider either a maintenance or shock treatment to help alleviate the situation. Septic shock treatments are readily available and promote explosive amounts of bacteria to help reduce wet spots caused by clogs and excess buildup.

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What Is A Septic System Baffle?

Nov 2nd, 2011
by SepticMan.
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Septic systems are installed in those areas where there is no municipal sewage service or arrangement. A septic system has many components and the baffle is one of them that is important to overall function. Baffles are important for safe and well-organized operation of septic system and prevent solids from spilling over to the drainage areas such as those found in a cesspool or leach field. 

Each septic system has an inlet and outlet pipe coming and going out in different directions. The baffle is found just beyond the piping, inside the tank and is designed in such a way that it sets below the water level in the tank, stopping large particles or solids from traveling outside of the tank system. 

The baffle is in the shape of flap, which helps it to allow the intake and outlet to work in the correct way. If there is any damage to the baffle due to corrosion, erosion or decay, the solids will be allowed to escape and since the drainage areas are not designed to break down such solids, problems usually follow shortly thereafter. 

A healthy sewage system should not release a great deal of odor and if you are experience odors or smells, this may be the result of a defective or missing baffle. Most septic tank baffles are made of metal and are attached on the wall, hanging down inside of the tank. While fiberglass, plastic and PVC are sometimes used, most all baffle designs are similar and perform a set function. Whenever the system is emptied or pumped out, inspection of the baffle is critical since the loss of one can deteriorate a drain field within a matter of months. If the septic tank lacks baffles, life of the drain field will shorten drastically and as a result, the life of the entire sewage system or septic system will also shorten. 

In the case of a damaged or missing baffle, replacements are made with a septic tank tee. This tee is a “T” shaped device installed in the place of baffle. It functions similarly to a baffle and only differs in shape, which makes it lot easier to install as a modification or replacement. If the baffle cannot be repaired, the “T” will serve the same purpose. Each “T” has a long neck with one neck placed at the inlet or outlet of the tank and the other neck (the longer one) will have an opening towards the septic tank. The opening will be pointing toward the inlet side where solids and fluids enter the tank from the home. This design allows the water to flow and to help the solid and sludge remain in the bottom of the septic tank. 

Baffles also help in retain semi-sludge into the tank, assuring clearer liquids enter the field areas. The baffle is critical for proper septic functionality. If you suspect that your system may have an issue, start with a full pump-out and be sure to inspect the extremely important – baffle.

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Septic Tank Cleaners and Bacteria

Nov 1st, 2011
by SepticMan.
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Septic tank cleaners and bacteria, just as humans have a digestive system, so too does your septic tank.  When your digestive system is working properly you feel good and at the top of your game.  Problems do occur though, like constipation and diarrhea.  Being constipated is like having a blockage in your septic system whereas diarrhea can be compared to your leaching field being flooded with excess water and waste.  Our bodies digest food and get rid of all the bad solid waste. 

When your septic tank is working properly, solid waste is transformed into liquid waste or effluent.  When your septic tank isn’t working properly, blockages of sludge build up in your septic tank and drain field pipes.  This can be disastrous and cost you the homeowner thousands in repairs or total system replacement in a worst case scenario.  This post will point out some things that can ruin your septic system.

The first thing you should avoid doing is disposing of too much oil and grease down your sink drains or utility sinks.  Septic systems have a difficult time breaking down fats, oil and grease.  These three things solidify and cause blockages in the drain field and eventually be the source of foul sewer odors and septic smells.

Next, don’t flush anything that is non- biodegradable down your toilet.  For instance, tampons, cotton swabs, and cat litter will only contribute to septic system blockages.  You may think that kitchen sink garbage disposal systems are great, but when used in excess, can be the cause of major septic blockages by depositing raw undigested waste into the septic system. This raw undigested waste takes a considerably longer time to digest causing septic backups.

Certain toxic septic tank cleaner chemicals can be harmful to your septic system.  These include products containing bleach, paint, pesticides, and other items considered to be a solvent.  The percentage of oil in these items is high and contributes to thick nasty sludge bio-mat forming in your septic tank and drain field.  Many of these chemical based septic tank cleaners kill off the healthy bacteria essential to septic digestion in your septic. Bacteria based septic tank cleaners actually boost the digestion process of solid waste and support a good healthy septic environment.

One more thing that you should be mindful of in regards to your septic tank is the type of trees and plants surrounding your system.  Roots that penetrate deep into the soil can break through the wall of your septic tank and drain field causing serious damage to the system.  Instead, ask a local garden nursery for plants and trees with shallow roots. 

If a blockage does occur, your problem can be solved by adding a septic tank cleaner on a monthly basis. Monthly septic tank maintenance treatment containing a beneficial septic tank treatment will benefit the growth of healthy bacteria essential to the smooth operation of septic systems.  Natural septic tank cleaner products are environmentally safe and contain healthy bacteria and enzymes will help to maintain an ideal septic system.  Keeping your septic system healthy is good for the environment and your finances.

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How Much Does It Cost To Have A Septic System Pumped?

Oct 27th, 2011
by SepticMan.
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In various parts of North America, septic systems are still in use. One of the prime reasons why most people prefer to have a septic systems installed in their house is that they are inexpensive. Another reason why people have septic systems is that they have no access to the city’s centralized sewer system. One periodically needs to monitor the functioning of his/her septic system to prevent it from malfunctioning. Many a times, the solid waste flushed down the toilet or the sink tends to block the lines connecting the septic tank. As a result, sludge is formed inside the tank, which further becomes a major reason for septic odor. 

To avoid this situation, it is very important to pump the septic system after regular intervals of time to ensure its efficient functioning. Unfortunately, you will not be able to carry out the task on your own, as you may not have the necessary tools and the expertise. You will have to hire a professional to do the job. Pumping the septic system may cost you somewhere between $125 to $250, and in some areas this price can run as high as $950 or more. Some may also charge you more than this. Why is there such a huge variation in the prices? 

Numerous factors decide the cost for pumping the septic tank. Service providers may charge you more if it requires them to put in many efforts to access the septic system. Some septic systems lack a riser and therefore, the cleaner first has to dig a hole to get to the lid of the septic tank. It will cost you somewhere around $250. However, if your septic system has a riser, you will not have to pay too much. 

The cost can further mount up high if you do not know about the exact location of your septic tank. The cleaner will first have to locate the tank (which can take minutes or even hours in some cases) and then move on to the cleaning process. As a result, you need to pay the cleaner two separate amounts one for pumping the system and the other for locating the tank. Fortunately, most of the modern day service providers have tools that can help one easily detect the location where the septic tank lies. 

To keep the septic system in good shape, it is very important to pump it at least twice every year. However, this may turn out to be an expensive affair for many. The best way to look out for an affordable septic system-pumping agency is by surfing for one over Internet. You may come across agencies charging a hefty fee just because of the fact that they have been in this business for a very long time. Therefore, do not just choose an agency considering its popularity. Rather go for the one with a good past record. Once you come across an affordable septic system-pumping agency, check out its reviews on Internet. See what the public have to say about them. Pumping the septic tank will not cost you too much if you make the right move.

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